Tuesday 14 March 2017

MONDAY, March 13

The weather looked very promising, (16-10 degrees, western wind, cloudy, no rain - according to the forecast) so we decided to drive south to Lindos and explore the famous city.

Traffic on the main road was busier than we experienced so far, but we were not in a hurry, and enjoyed the beautiful trip via the coastal road.

From Faliraki it’s only 36 km. to Lindos. We parked the car on one of the parking lots and walked down to the still quiet city. Empty streets, no tourists around – a wonderful opportunity to take lots of pictures!

LINDOS
Lindos was founded by the Dorians in about the 10th century BC. And one of six Dorian cities in the area known as the Dorian Hexapolis. The eastern location of Rhodes made it a natural meeting place between the Greeks and the Phoenicians, and by the 8th century Lindos was a major trading centre.
The importance of Lindos declined after the foundation of the city of Rhodes in the late 5th century.
Above the modern town rises the acropolis of Lindos, a natural citadel which was fortified successively by the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Knights of St John and the Ottomans. This makes the site difficult to excavate and interpret archaeologically. The acropolis offers spectacular views of the surrounding harbours and coastline.
Nestling at the foot of a steep rock and beautifully surrounded by the sea lies the traditional settlement of Líndos; on the top of the same rock stands a centuries-old acropolis, proudly overlooking the archipelagos. The acropolis bears silent witness to Líndos’ glorious past, a major naval power of ancient times which reputedly had a population of 17,000. The landscape of Líndos encapsulates the essence of Rhodes: a surprisingly felicitous blend of ancient and medieval! With 600,000 visitors annually, Líndos competes with Delphi as the second most visited archeological site in Greece.
The view of Líndos village with its cubic houses sprawling down the hillside under the acropolis is one of the most photographed scenes in Greece. The whitewashed labyrinth of little alleyways was deliberately designed to confuse pirates; today this layout makes wandering around the town a real adventure! There are picture-perfect medieval captains’ residences built around votsalotó (meaning pebbly) courtyards with emblems on their heavy wooden doorways. Arched entrances adorn the streets adding a cosmopolitan flair to the settlement.
Some scenes of the film, The Guns of Navarone, were filmed here.

Most of the shops were still closed, so we zigzagged from one end of the city to the
central square, where a fish monger was selling a fresh catch from the back of his truck. Now I understood why so many cats were sitting nearby!

Thankfully a coffee bar was open, so we could have our caffeine shot, use the toilet and shelter for the rain.

Because we left one of the rain jackets at home, we had to buy two umbrellas in the local mini market (boosted the owner’s daily sales…). It helped us stay dry for the short period that it rained. By the time we began climbing the many stairs towards the castle, the rain had stopped, thankfully!


At the top we learned that the castle was closed on Mondays! 😊 Instead, we walked around the castle towards the sea and were blessed with amazing views, plus a big variety of wild flowers we otherwise would not have seen. Even bumped into an Israeli father and son – of all places!


It was great, being able to walk through the beautiful city, without having to bump into busloads of tourists! In all, we saw a total of 6 fellow tourists – not bad! Pre-holiday season, there still was a casual atmosphere, with food standing on doorsteps, keys still in the door, or a plastic bag with left-over food and bread hanging on a door knob.

Our next stop was the beautiful bay below the city – St. Pauls Bay.

St Pauls Bay (Agios Pavlos) is a picturesque bay just south of Lindos. It is claimed that Paul the apostle landed here in the year 51 AD (his 3rd missionary journey) to preach Christianity to the Rhodians. According to legend, the bay was created when Paul’s ship encountered a sudden storm before the coast of Rhodes. The ship and its people were saved because suddenly an entrance appeared towards a safe haven, as if it had been created by the hand of God. (What now is the narrow entrance to the bay.) The small church built on the hillside is a very popular wedding location.

The church was closed, but it was a worthwhile walk down to the water, because of the beautiful view of the hills, and the castle against the lead grey sky, promising more rain!


After eating our sandwiches in the car, we planned to take the scenic route via the center of the island, but somehow missed the correct exit. So, instead we went back the way we came, and ended up behind a very slow moving transport. It was a TANK! We’re used to those in Israel, but didn’t expect to see one here!

We quickly bought a few groceries at ‘our’ AB supermarket and returned home.
Nice to have some ready soup to heat up, after Wim took his longed-for nap.

As the afternoon progressed, the weather cleared up. So much, that Stergos informed us the sky would be clear enough for a tour of the observary. He’ll be showing us the moon through the telescope and later we can have a look at Saturn! Wow.

But that will be another story for tomorrow!